Rosa ‘Hot Chocolate’: a smoky-orange floribunda that flowers for months
Rosa ‘Hot Chocolate’ —also sold as Rosa ‘Hot Cocoa’ and registered as ‘WEKpaltlez’—wins gardeners over with velvety blooms in shades of smoky chocolate, copper, russet, and ember-orange. This floribunda rose sits in the Rosaceae family and combines modern health with a color you don’t see every day. The shrub stays compact, carries glossy dark foliage, and pushes out clusters of flowers from late spring to frost. Plant it for border drama, pot it for a patio focal point, or line a path with a low hedge that smells faintly of fruit and spice.
Meet Rosa ‘Hot Chocolate’
This rose grows as an upright, bushy shrub with strong basals and a tidy outline. In most gardens it reaches 90–150 cm tall (3–5 ft) and 60–90 cm wide (2–3 ft). The foliage is large, leathery, and dark green with a handsome gloss that sets off the hot, smoky petals. New shoots often flush with a plum cast before maturing to green. The plant repeats fast, so you rarely stare at bare stems in midsummer.
Background and naming of Rosa ‘Hot Chocolate’
American breeder Tom Carruth selected this cultivar in 2002. Weeks Roses introduced it in 2003, and it won All-America Rose Selections that same year. In the United States you’ll most often see the name Hot Cocoa. In the United Kingdom and elsewhere you’ll find it as Hot Chocolate. Both names refer to the same floribunda rose with the breeder code ‘WEKpaltlez’. Carruth also used it as a parent of several well-known roses, including ‘About Face’, ‘Coffee Bean’, and ‘Coretta Scott King’, which hints at the value of its color and vigor in breeding.
Flowering season and color of Rosa ‘Hot Cocoa’
Expect flushes from late spring until hard frost. Each bloom measures about 10–12 cm across (4–5 in) with 26–40 petals. Buds open in a deep rusty orange, then shift toward smoky russet, copper, and brownish plum as the flowers mature. Cool nights pull darker, more chocolaty tones. Heat brings out orange and ember notes. The flowers cluster on sturdy stems, so you get a candelabra effect when the shrub hits its stride. Fragrance reads as medium, with fruity undertones and a trace of spice.
Growth habit, vigor, and size in the landscape
This is a medium-tall floribunda. It fills its footprint quickly but rarely overwhelms its neighbors. Strong canes hold the trusses upright in wind and rain. In rich soil and heat, height may top out near 150 cm (5 ft). In cooler coastal sites, expect closer to 90–120 cm (3–4 ft). As with most cluster-flowering roses, short internodes help produce dense bloom. Good disease resistance and fast rebloom make it a reliable performer for mixed borders, rose allees, and large containers.
Environmental tolerances
Rosa ‘Hot Chocolate’ adapts well to many climates. It handles full sun and summer heat without dulling. It tolerates cool nights and swings in spring weather. Once established, it takes brief dry spells, though consistent moisture supports better bloom. In most regions it grows well in USDA Zones 6–9; with thoughtful winter protection many Zone 5 gardeners also succeed. Humid summers call for spacing and air to keep foliage clean. Dry inland summers call for mulch and deep water to hold color and vigor.
How to Grow Rosa ‘Hot Chocolate’
Light
Give it full sun. Aim for at least 6–8 hours of direct light each day. Morning sun dries dew fast and reduces disease pressure. In very hot interiors, light afternoon shade keeps petals from singeing and stretches bloom life by a day or two.
Soil
Plant it in fertile, well-drained soil. A loam rich in organic matter is ideal. Target a pH between 6.0 and 6.8, though the plant copes with slightly more alkaline conditions if nutrients stay available. In heavy clay, raise the bed 10–15 cm (4–6 in) and work in compost and sharp grit to improve drainage. In very sandy ground, add compost to boost water-holding capacity.
Watering
Water deeply and regularly, especially in the first season. During establishment, soak the root zone when the top 5–8 cm (2–3 in) of soil feels dry. Mature shrubs often thrive with one deep soak per week in average weather and two in heat waves. Deliver water at the base with a hose, drip line, or soaker to keep foliage dry. Each deep soak should moisten the soil to 20–30 cm (8–12 in). In containers, check moisture daily in summer; pots shed water and heat faster than ground beds.
Fertilizing
Feed for steady growth and repeat bloom. In early spring, apply a balanced, slow-release rose fertilizer or scratch in 2–3 cm (¾–1¼ in) of compost around the drip line. After the first big flush, feed again to drive the next wave. In long warm seasons, a light midsummer top-up helps, but stop feeding 6–8 weeks before your average first frost so new growth can harden. Avoid pushing too much nitrogen, which favors leaves over flowers.
Planting and spacing
Set the crown at grade in warm regions and 2–5 cm (¾–2 in) below grade in colder climates to protect the graft. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and about the same depth. Loosen circling roots, backfill with native soil amended with compost, firm lightly, and water well. Space shrubs 90–120 cm apart (3–4 ft) to ensure air movement. For a low hedge, plant on 75–90 cm centers (30–36 in) and prune uniformly to knit the line.
Temperature and hardiness
This rose performs across Zones 6–9 with minimal fuss. In Zone 5, mound 20–25 cm (8–10 in) of composted bark or soil over the crown after the ground freezes, then pull it back in spring. Sudden spring warm-ups followed by cold snaps can nip new shoots; a breathable frost cloth on cold nights protects tender growth.
Pruning
Prune in late winter or very early spring, just before buds break. Remove dead, damaged, or crossing canes. Open the center to light and air. Reduce remaining canes by about one-third to one-half, cutting just above outward-facing buds at a 45-degree angle. Through the season, deadhead spent clusters back to a strong five-leaflet leaf. This channels energy to new trusses and keeps the shrub compact. Every few years, remove one or two of the oldest canes at the base to stimulate fresh, vigorous shoots.
Mulching
Lay a 5–7 cm (2–3 in) ring of organic mulch around the plant, keeping it 8–10 cm (3–4 in) away from the canes. Mulch reduces evaporation, keeps roots cool, and suppresses weeds. Renew the layer each spring after the soil warms.
Containers
Rosa ‘Hot Chocolate’ shines in large pots on sunny patios. Choose a container 40–50 cm wide (16–20 in) with generous drainage holes. Use a high-quality potting mix enriched with compost and perlite for structure and air. Water whenever the top 2–3 cm (¾–1¼ in) of mix dries. Feed lightly but more often than in ground—every 4–6 weeks from spring to midsummer with a balanced liquid feed at half strength. In cold regions, roll the pot into a frost-free garage in winter and water just enough to keep the mix from going bone dry.
Propagation of Rosa ‘Hot Chocolate’
Home gardeners propagate this floribunda by cuttings or budding. For softwood cuttings, take 12–15 cm (5–6 in) pieces from non-flowering shoots in late spring or early summer. Strip lower leaves, dip the base in rooting hormone, and insert into a sterile blend of perlite and peat or fine bark. Keep humidity high and temperatures around 21–24 °C (70–75 °F). Semi-hardwood cuttings in late summer also root well. Many nurseries bud Rosa ‘Hot Chocolate’ onto hardy rootstocks to standardize vigor and soil adaptation. If you graft at home, align cambium layers carefully and secure the union firmly, then heel in the plant over winter so the graft heals before spring growth.
Pests and diseases on Rosa ‘Hot Chocolate’
This cultivar carries solid resistance to black spot and powdery mildew, yet good culture keeps it cleaner and more floriferous. Water at the base, allow space for breeze, and clean up fallen leaves in autumn. In wet spells, a preventative spray program with sulfur or a labeled biofungicide can help if your garden historically battles leaf diseases.
Aphids may cluster on spring shoots. Knock them off with a sharp water jet or use insecticidal soap. Thrips can mar petals during peak heat; remove affected buds and encourage beneficial insects by avoiding broad-spectrum sprays. Spider mites flare in hot, dusty weather; rinse foliage in the morning and use horticultural oil if needed. Sawfly larvae, also called rose slugs, skeletonize leaves from below. Check leaf undersides and hand-remove or treat early with a soap or oil labeled for them.
Cane borers sometimes enter through pruning cuts. Seal large cuts with a dab of white glue to discourage entry. Root rot develops in poorly drained soils; solve it with raised beds and moderated irrigation, not with chemicals. Good sanitation matters. Disinfect pruners between plants with 70% alcohol or a 10% bleach solution.
Winter care and seasonal tasks
As autumn approaches, ease off fertilizer and let the plant slow naturally. After the first hard frost in cold climates, mound soil or compost over the crown, then add a dry leaf or bark collar to buffer freeze-thaw cycles. In late winter, pull the mound back, prune, and refresh mulch. In warm winter regions, focus on pruning and a spring feed; the plant often keeps some foliage and may show scattered winter flowers after mild spells.
Landscape uses for Rosa ‘Hot Chocolate’
The color sells this rose. Use it where warm tones matter. It glows near bronze grasses, copper sedges, and terra-cotta pots. Tuck it into a mixed border with smoky purples and sultry oranges—think ‘Merlot’ penstemon, deep plum Salvia, and apricot Daylilies. Along a path, plant a short row to make a low hedge that reads as a continuous band of ember-colored bloom from June through October. In a contemporary scheme, mass three shrubs in a triangle and repeat the form with gray stone mulch and black planters to make the unusual petal tones the star.
Companions that flatter the bloom
Pair Rosa ‘Hot Chocolate’ with plants that echo or cool its palette. Silver foliage from artemisia and wormwood sharpens the smoky petals. Blue catmint, Russian sage, and hardy salvia cool the heat while feeding pollinators. Burnt-orange Kniphofia and coppery carex pull the ember notes forward. Lavender and rosemary add fragrance and attract helpful insects. Keep companions a step lower so rose trusses sit above them in clear view.
Cutting and vase life
Cut stems early in the day when outer petals just loosen from the bud. Use a clean bucket of lukewarm water and strip leaves that will sit below the waterline. Recut stems under water and place in a floral preservative. Expect 4–6 days of vase life indoors, longer in cool rooms. Because the color deepens as the bloom ages, a mixed stage bouquet looks especially rich.
Troubleshooting and quick fixes
If flowers fade quickly in heat, add afternoon shade and water more deeply but less often. However, if growth looks lush but bloom counts drop, reduce nitrogen and switch to a bloom-forward feed after the first flush. If you see yellow leaves low on the plant in midsummer, check moisture and drainage; both underwatering and chronic wetness can cause stress. If canes die back after winter, prune to healthy green pith and feed once new shoots appear. The shrub rebounds fast and often replaces lost height by midsummer.
Why choose Rosa ‘Hot Chocolate’
You choose this rose for its color first, but you keep it for its work ethic. It stays compact, resists common diseases, and sends up wave after wave of flowers that shift from ember to cocoa with the weather. It handles heat, copes with cool nights, and shines in beds or big containers. With a sunny site, a deep weekly soak, and a light hand on fertilizer, Rosa‘Hot Chocolate’ or Rosa ‘Hot Cocoa’ will deliver months of smoky, sunset-toned blooms with very little fuss—exactly what you want from a modern floribunda.
