Rosa ‘Chihuly™’: a painterly floribunda for bold, ever-changing color
Rosa ‘Chihuly™’ or Chihuly Rose is a floribunda rose that behaves like a living canvas, washing each bloom in brushstrokes of apricot, yellow, orange, and red as the flower opens and ages. Named in honor of glass artist Dale Chihuly, this compact, bushy shrub delivers clusters of color from late spring to frost with very little fuss.
It belongs to the Rosaceae family, the same wide clan that includes apples and strawberries, yet it stands out for its dynamic hues, glossy foliage, and strong garden performance. Plant it for a low hedge, a vivid border, or a showpiece in a large container. You’ll get a long season of flowers, a mild tea-and-honey fragrance, and handsome growth that fits neatly into smaller spaces.
The story of Rosa ‘Chihuly™’
American breeder Tom Carruth selected ‘Chihuly™’ (registered as ‘WEKscemala’) for Weeks Roses and introduced it in 2004. He aimed for a floribunda that would echo the drama of Chihuly’s glass—glowing color, shifting tones, and a sense of movement. He also insisted on a healthy plant with repeat flowers and a tidy habit. The result is a rose that holds its own in public landscapes and home gardens alike. In USDA Zones 6 to 10, it performs as a reliable, repeat-blooming shrub; in cooler zones, it can still succeed with winter protection.
What Rosa ‘Chihuly™’ looks like through the season
Young buds often show warm apricot to sunny yellow. As the petals unfurl, orange and scarlet paint the edges and midribs. In cool nights, the reds deepen and the contrasts sharpen; in summer heat, the blends soften to a golden glow. Each bloom measures about 9–10 cm (3½–4 in) across, with a medium double form and ruffled petals that catch the light. Flowers come in clusters, so even a single shrub can produce a showy splash.
The foliage is an ideal backdrop. Large, dark green, and glossy leaves cover the plant densely from the base up. New growth emerges a deep bronze-red, which heightens the drama when the first buds appear. Stems are nearly thornless by rose standards, so deadheading and cutting for the vase feel easier on your hands. The plant builds into a rounded shrub about 0.9–1.5 m tall and wide (3–5 ft), with sturdy, upright canes that hold clusters without flopping.
Flowering season and fragrance
Expect the first heavy flush in late spring. After a brief rest, subsequent waves follow through summer and into autumn until hard frost. Deadhead promptly and you’ll shorten the pause between flushes. The scent is mild to medium—think light tea with honey and a hint of fruit—pleasant in the garden and gentle indoors.
Growth habit and environmental tolerance
Rosa ‘Chihuly™’ grows with a compact, bushy habit that makes spacing and shaping straightforward. Give it full sun and you’ll see the best color and the most flowers. It tolerates summer heat well once established and handles ordinary garden soils if drainage is good. In cooler climates, the plant actually displays stronger reds; in hot climates, the shades read warmer and more blended. Hardy in USDA Zones 6–10, it can overwinter farther north with extra protection over the crown.
How to Grow Rosa ‘Chihuly™’
Light
Place it in full sun for at least 6–8 hours daily. Morning sun helps dry leaves quickly after dew or irrigation. In very hot regions, a touch of light afternoon shade can protect petals from bleaching while keeping the plant productive.
Soil
Set it in fertile, well-drained soil. Aim for a pH between 6.0 and 6.8. In heavy clay, work in 5–8 cm (2–3 in) of compost plus coarse grit to improve structure and drainage. In sandy soil, boost water-holding capacity with compost and leaf mold. Roses dislike waterlogged sites, so avoid low spots where winter wet lingers.
Watering
Water deeply and consistently. During the first growing season, soak the root zone once or twice weekly, delivering roughly 10–15 L (2½–4 gal) per plant each time, depending on soil type and weather. After establishment, water when the top 5–8 cm (2–3 in) of soil dries. Always direct water at the base. Wet foliage encourages leaf diseases, especially in humid climates. In containers, check daily during heat waves; pots dry faster than beds.
Fertilizing
Feed to match the long bloom season. In early spring, as new buds break, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer formulated for roses, or scratch in 2–3 L (2–3 qt) of well-rotted compost per plant. After the first flush, feed again to support new growth and the next wave of blooms. In rich soils, one supplemental feeding in midsummer is enough. Avoid high-nitrogen products that push soft foliage at the expense of flowers. Stop fertilizing about 6 weeks before your average first frost to let new growth harden.
Mulching
Mulch conserves moisture, cools roots, and suppresses weeds. In spring, spread 5–7 cm (2–3 in) of organic mulch, such as composted bark, shredded leaves, or pine fines, keeping it 5 cm (2 in) away from canes to prevent rot. In hot climates, mulch is the difference between steady bloom and summer stall.
Planting and spacing
Dig a hole 45–50 cm wide and 35–40 cm deep (18–20 in by 14–16 in). Mix excavated soil with compost at a 3:1 ratio. If planting a budded rose, set the bud union about 2–5 cm (1–2 in) above the soil line in mild climates and just below the surface in colder zones for extra winter insurance. Backfill, firm gently, and water to settle. Space shrubs 75–100 cm (30–40 in) apart to ensure airflow and easy access for pruning.
Pruning and training
Prune in late winter or very early spring before vigorous growth begins. Remove dead, damaged, or crossing canes first. Then reduce remaining canes by about one third to shape a rounded plant. As the season progresses, deadhead promptly. Cut the spent flowering stem back to a strong outward-facing leaflet with five leaflets; this cue usually marks a node capable of producing a sturdy new stem. In autumn, only tidy long whips that might rock in winter winds; save structural pruning for spring.
Container culture
Rosa ‘Chihuly™’ shines in large patio pots. Choose a container at least 45–50 cm (18–20 in) in diameter with generous drainage holes. Fill with a high-quality potting mix amended with 20–30% compost and some coarse perlite for drainage. Water when the top 3–5 cm (1–2 in) of mix is dry. Feed lightly but regularly, since nutrients leach faster in pots. Turn the container a quarter turn each week to even out sun exposure and growth.
Cold-climate care
In Zones 6 and marginal 5, mound 20–25 cm (8–10 in) of compost or clean soil around the crown after the ground cools in late autumn. In very cold, windy sites, wrap the lower framework with burlap to buffer desiccating winds. Remove protection gradually in spring as the soil thaws and buds swell.
Rosa ‘Chihuly™’ in the landscape
Use a pair to anchor a front walk or flank a gate. Plant three in a triangle for a low hedge that blooms for months. Combine with blue companions such as catmint, Salvia, or Russian sage to intensify the warm tones. Silver foliage—Stachys byzantina, artemisia, or lavender—cools the palette and highlights the red edging that appears in cool weather. At the feet of the shrub, a skirt of hardy geranium or dwarf daylily hides the mulch and keeps roots shaded.
For cut flowers, harvest when the outer petals have opened and the inner swirl still holds. Place stems in lukewarm water with floral preservative. Expect 3–5 days of vase life, sometimes longer in cool rooms.
Why choose Rosa ‘Chihuly™’ over other multicolored roses
Color play defines this cultivar. Many roses shift shades, but few travel through yellow, apricot, orange, and red on the very same flower. The plant stays compact without constant clipping, and the foliage remains handsome through summer. Disease resistance is good for a floribunda, especially when you provide sun, air, and steady moisture at the roots.
Propagation of Rosa ‘Chihuly™’
Most home gardeners purchase budded or own-root plants from reputable nurseries. If you propagate roses, use clean, sharp tools and disease-free mother plants. Semi-ripe cuttings taken in midsummer often root well under intermittent mist. Hardwood cuttings can also root over winter in a sheltered bed. Many named roses carry plant-patent protections; always respect current intellectual property laws and local regulations before asexual propagation.
Pests and diseases
Healthy, well-sited plants shrug off most problems, but watch closely in warm, humid spells or during drought stress.
Black spot and powdery mildew
Remain the classic rose diseases. Prevent them by spacing plants for airflow, watering at the base, and removing any spotted leaves as soon as you see them. If your climate favors black spot, begin a preventative spray program in spring with a labeled fungicide or an organic option such as potassium bicarbonate, applied according to directions. Powdery mildew appears as white film on new leaves and buds; improve airflow and avoid late-day overhead watering.
Rust
Can appear late in the season as orange pustules under leaves. Pick and discard infected leaves and keep the area clean in autumn.
Aphids
Cluster on tender tips and buds, especially in spring. A firm blast of water in the morning dislodges most. Lady beetles and lacewings finish the job. If populations build, use insecticidal soap.
Thrips
Can mar petals with brown streaks. Deadhead promptly and keep spent blooms off the ground. Blue sticky cards help you monitor flights; if needed, consult local recommendations for targeted control.
Spider mites
Thrive in hot, dusty conditions. Hose the undersides of leaves weekly and keep the plant evenly watered. In severe cases, use horticultural oil labeled for mites and roses.
Rose slug sawfly larvae
Skeletonize leaves from below. Look for window-pane damage in spring. Hand-pick or rinse off with water; neem or spinosad products can help if pressure is heavy.
Japanese beetles
In some regions chew flowers and foliage. Shake them into soapy water in early morning and keep nearby turf well maintained to reduce local populations. Floating row covers can protect young plants outside of bloom time.
Good hygiene matters. In autumn, rake and dispose of fallen leaves. Do not compost diseased foliage unless your compost system runs hot enough to kill pathogens.
Fine-tuning flower power
Deadhead with care and you’ll see faster rebloom. Cut back far enough to a strong outward bud so the next stem is sturdy and well placed. Keep soil moisture steady during heat waves; drought can pause bloom. If petal colors look pale in midsummer, give the plant a light midseason feed and check whether reflected heat from pavement is stressing it. In late summer and early autumn, cooler nights return the richest reds and striping—prime time for photographs.
Rosa ‘Chihuly™’ for small gardens and patios
Because the plant tops out around 0.9–1.5 m (3–5 ft), it fits beautifully into tight spaces. In a 50–60 cm (20–24 in) pot, one shrub becomes a season-long accent for an entry or deck. Train a single strong cane into a short standard on a slim stake, then let the side shoots form a glowing sphere of color. Underplant the pot with trailing blue lobelia, white bacopa, or soft gray helichrysum to cool the vivid tones.
Seasonal calendar for Rosa ‘Chihuly™’
Late winter to early spring: Prune, feed, refresh mulch, and check irrigation. In cold zones, remove winter mounds when hard freezes pass.
Spring: Enjoy the first big flush. Deadhead as flowers fade. Watch for aphids and rose slug sawfly larvae on tender growth.
Early to midsummer: Water deeply during hot spells. Deadhead to maintain momentum. If needed, provide a light supplemental feed after the first flush.
Late summer to autumn: Expect rich color as nights cool. Reduce feeding by late summer in cold regions so new growth can harden. In warm zones, flowering often continues into November.
Late autumn: Rake leaves. In cold regions, mound soil or compost over the crown and set windbreaks as needed.
Quick specifications
Botanical name: Rosa ‘Chihuly™’ (registered as ‘WEKscemala’)
Common names and synonyms: Chihuly Floribunda Rose, Chihuly Rose
Family: Rosaceae
Plant type: Deciduous shrub, floribunda rose
Mature size: 0.9–1.5 m tall and wide (3–5 ft)
Bloom size: 9–10 cm (3½–4 in) across, medium double, ruffled
Fragrance: Mild to medium, tea-honey with light fruit
Flowering: Repeats in flushes from late spring to frost
Exposure: Full sun; light afternoon shade in hot climates
Soil: Fertile, well-drained; pH 6.0–6.8 preferred
Water: Regular, deep soakings; keep foliage dry
Hardiness: USDA Zones 6–10
Notable traits: Nearly thornless stems, glossy foliage, strong color change on each bloom, good disease resistance
Troubleshooting guide
Few or small flowers: Check sun exposure first. You need 6–8 hours daily. Then review feeding; too much nitrogen produces leaves at the expense of blooms. Deadhead to reset the bloom cycle.
Yellowing leaves with green veins: This often signals high pH–induced iron chlorosis. Add chelated iron and organic matter; avoid lime.
Blackened buds that fail to open: Thrips or water stress. Increase deep watering during heat and use sticky cards and sanitation to manage thrips.
Leaves with black spots and yellow halos: Classic black spot. Improve airflow, keep leaves dry, remove infected foliage, and use a labeled fungicide if the weather stays wet.
Scorched leaf edges in midsummer: Heat and reflective surfaces can cook leaves. Add mulch, adjust irrigation, and consider a light afternoon shade screen in extreme heat.
Final planting tips to get the best color from Rosa ‘Chihuly™’
Choose a bright, open site with morning sun. Prepare the soil generously with compost so roots explore fast. Plant at the right depth, water deeply, and mulch. Keep the feeding steady but modest. Deadhead with intention. With these basics in place, Rosa ‘Chihuly™’ will reward you with months of evolving color—apricot at dawn, orange by noon, and red by evening—day after day, season after season.
