Rosa ‘Princess Alexandra of Kent’ — A Generous English Shrub Rose With Majestic Color and Perfume
Rosa ‘Princess Alexandra of Kent’ opens its vast, deeply cupped blooms in a glowing, mid-pink that stops you in your tracks. Each flower holds layer upon layer of petals, yet the shrub stays tidy and balanced. You see the flowers poised just above healthy foliage, not buried in it. The fragrance starts as a classic Tea scent, then shifts to lemon and finally to a juicy note of blackcurrant. Bred by David Austin and registered as ‘Ausmerchant’, this English Shrub Rose delivers repeat flushes from late spring to frost and thrives in a wide range of gardens.
Background and family
This rose belongs to the Rosaceae family, the same large plant family that includes apples, pears, plums, and strawberries. Within the family, the genus Rosa contains the classic garden roses. ‘Princess Alexandra of Kent’ sits in Austin’s English Shrub Rose group, created to combine the charm and perfume of old roses with the staying power and remontancy of modern roses. David Austin introduced it in 2007 and named it for Princess Alexandra, a devoted gardener. The breeder code is ‘Ausmerchant’.
Why Rosa ‘Princess Alexandra of Kent’ earns a place in the border
Gardeners choose this rose for three reasons: flower size, fragrance, and stamina. The flowers are unusually large for a shrub rose, often 9–12 cm (3.5–5 in) across, with a lush, chalice-like form and around 100–130 petals. The scent performs like a story in three acts—Tea, then lemon, then blackcurrant. And the shrub pushes out bloom after bloom from late spring until the cold stops it. In short, it behaves like a hard-working landscape rose but looks like a luxury cut flower.
Flowers and foliage
Blooms open in small clusters with a saturated warm pink at the center. The outer petals soften to a lighter pink as they unfurl. In cool weather the color deepens; in heat it stays clear and cheerful. Golden stamens hide deep in the cup and peek out as blooms mature. The foliage is deep green and semi-glossy, with a clean, robust look that helps the shrub read as “finished” even between flushes. New growth often shows a reddish tint before turning green.
Flowering season of Rosa ‘Princess Alexandra of Kent’
Expect the first big flush from late spring. Plants then cycle in waves through summer and early autumn, often right up to first frost. Each wave lasts for weeks, especially if you deadhead. The shrub grows upright and rounded, typically 1.2–1.5 m tall (4–5 ft) and 1.0–1.2 m wide (3–4 ft). It holds flowers on sturdy stems, so trusses don’t flop in light rain. In windy sites it still appreciates a sheltered position.
Size, spacing, and siting
Give each plant 90–120 cm (3–4 ft) of width so air can move through the canopy. For a low flowering hedge, space at 75–90 cm (30–36 in) on center. In mixed borders, place it mid-border where the large blooms show above perennials. It also suits a generous container: a pot 45–50 cm (18–20 in) in diameter and depth gives the roots room to run.
Fragrance: from Tea to Lemon to Blackcurrant
Scent makes this cultivar special. On cool mornings you’ll notice a strong Tea perfume. As the day warms, the fragrance turns citrusy with a clean lemon note. On fully open blooms, a richer, fruity blackcurrant character comes through. Plant it near a path or seating area and you’ll notice the shift as flowers age.
Environmental tolerances
Rosa ‘Princess Alexandra of Kent’ shows good disease resistance when you keep air moving around the plant and water at the base. It tolerates summer heat if the soil stays evenly moist and mulched. It handles humidity better than many heritage types, though good spacing still matters. Winter hardiness is broad—generally USDA Zones 4–11—when you mulch well and protect the graft in colder climates. Afternoon shade in hot inland regions preserves color and petal substance.
How to grow Rosa ‘Princess Alexandra of Kent’
Light
Plant it where it receives at least 6 hours of direct sun. Morning sun dries dew fast and reduces disease risk. In hot summer regions, give it light afternoon shade (2–3 hours) to protect blooms and foliage. In cool coastal climates, full sun all day brings the best flowering.
Soil
Aim for fertile, well-drained loam with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Improve heavy clay by working in 5–8 cm (2–3 in) of compost plus coarse grit to boost drainage. In very sandy soil, add compost to increase water-holding capacity. Roses dislike “wet feet,” so raise the planting area 10–15 cm (4–6 in) if water lingers after rain.
Planting
Dig a hole 45–50 cm wide and 35–40 cm deep (18–20 in by 14–16 in). Blend the backfill with compost at roughly 1:3 by volume. If your plant is grafted, set the union 2–5 cm (1–2 in) below the soil surface in cold climates; keep it at soil level in warm regions. Water in with 8–10 L (2–2.5 gal) to settle the soil. Finish with mulch, leaving a clear collar around the canes.
Watering
Deep, infrequent watering creates strong roots. In the first growing season, apply about 10–12 L (2.5–3 gal) every 3–4 days in warm weather. After establishment, water once or twice a week depending on rainfall and heat. Check soil 5 cm (2 in) down; water when it feels dry at that depth. Drip irrigation or a soaker hose keeps leaves dry and disease pressure low.
Mulching
Lay 5–7 cm (2–3 in) of organic mulch—composted bark, leaf mold, or shredded wood—over the root zone. Mulch cools the soil, reduces evaporation, and suppresses weeds. Keep mulch 5–8 cm (2–3 in) away from canes to prevent rot.
Fertilizing
Feed for steady growth rather than quick spurts. In early spring, apply a balanced organic rose fertilizer at label rates, or top-dress with 2–3 L (2–3 qt) of compost. After the first flush, feed again to power repeat bloom. In mid-summer, a light application keeps the plant productive. Stop feeding 6–8 weeks before your first expected frost so new growth hardens in time. In containers, use a controlled-release fertilizer in spring and supplement with a dilute liquid feed every 3–4 weeks through midsummer.
Pruning and training
Prune in late winter or very early spring. Start by removing dead, damaged, and crossing wood. Open the center for airflow. Reduce remaining canes by about one-third to shape a balanced, rounded shrub 90–120 cm (3–4 ft) tall. On young plants, leave several strong canes to build the framework. Through the season, cut spent trusses back to a strong outward-facing leaflet. This deadheading brings a faster repeat cycle. In windy gardens, a discreet single stake prevents any wind rock on new plantings.
Propagating Rosa ‘Princess Alexandra of Kent’
Most gardeners buy this cultivar as a grafted plant, which delivers vigor and a consistent habit. If you’d like to propagate for personal use:
Softwood cuttings (late spring to early summer). Take 12–15 cm (5–6 in) cuttings from non-flowering shoots. Remove the lower leaves, keep two at the top, and lightly wound one side of the base. Dip in rooting hormone and insert into a free-draining mix (half perlite, half peat-free compost). Keep humidity high and light bright but indirect. Roots form in 4–8 weeks. Grow on in pots for a season before planting out.
Budding or grafting (mid to late summer). Skilled rosarians bud desired scions onto vigorous rootstocks to maintain the classic English Shrub Rose performance. If you try budding, follow strict sanitation and choose compatible rootstock.
Basal shoots. If your plant is on its own roots (rare for this cultivar), you can divide an offset with roots attached in early spring. Replant at the same depth and water well.
Always respect cultivar rights and local regulations where plant patents or propagation restrictions apply.
Pests and diseases: recognize, prevent, respond
Healthy cultural practices do the heavy lifting. Space plants, water at the base, enrich the soil, and keep the canopy open. Even so, you may see issues from time to time.
Black spot shows as round, sooty spots with yellow halos on leaves. Improve airflow, pick off affected leaves, and keep foliage dry. A preventive spray program with a sulfur or bio-based fungicide can help in humid regions.
Powdery mildew appears as a white dust on new growth during dry days and cool nights. Water earlier in the day, avoid high nitrogen, and prune lightly to improve circulation.
Rust causes orange pustules under leaves in cool, moist springs. Remove affected leaves and dispose of them—do not compost.
Downy mildew is less common but can strike in prolonged wet, cool spells. Good hygiene and drainage are key.
Aphids cluster on tender tips and buds. Wash off with a strong stream of water or treat with insecticidal soap. Beneficial insects often clear them naturally.
Spider mites thrive in hot, dry weather, stippling leaves. Hose foliage underneath in the morning during heat waves and keep plants evenly watered.
Thrips can scar petals, especially pale roses. Remove spent blooms promptly and consider blue or yellow sticky cards in greenhouses.
Sawfly (rose slug) skeletonizes leaves in late spring. Handpick or use a labeled control if damage builds.
Cane borers can invade fresh pruning cuts. Seal large cuts with white glue in areas where borers are common.
Rose rosette disease exists in some regions and spreads via mites. Symptoms include witch’s-broom growth, excessive thorniness, and distorted red shoots. Remove and destroy infected plants immediately; don’t replant roses in the same spot for a while if the disease is active locally.
Clean up dropped leaves in autumn and refresh mulch. Toss diseased leaves in the trash, not the compost heap.
Winter care for Rosa ‘Princess Alexandra of Kent’
This cultivar handles winter well with a little help. In USDA Zones 4–5, mound 20–30 cm (8–12 in) of soil or compost around the crown after the ground begins to freeze. However, in Zones 6–7, a 7–10 cm (3–4 in) mulch layer over the root zone is usually enough. In very windy sites, a simple burlap windbreak protects canes from desiccation. Remove extra soil mounds in early spring as buds swell.
Designing with Rosa ‘Princess Alexandra of Kent
Use it as a strong, romantic anchor in mixed borders. Pair it with cool-toned perennials that flatter pink: Nepeta (catmint), Salvia, Lavandula, and blue bearded irises. Low mounds of hardy geranium weave under the canopy and hide bare stems. Add airy companions like Gaura or Verbena bonariensis to float through the roses in summer. For shrubs, try a backdrop of Physocarpus with deep foliage or a hedge of clipped Buxus to frame the flowers.
For a flowering hedge, plant a row at 75–90 cm (30–36 in) spacing and prune evenly each spring. In pots, combine with silver herbs and cascading thyme for softness. Give containers a sunny, wind-sheltered patio or doorway, and water consistently.
Container culture
You can grow this rose very successfully in a large container. Choose a frost-resistant pot at least 45–50 cm (18–20 in) wide and deep with ample drainage holes. Use a high-quality, peat-free potting mix blended with 20–30% composted bark for structure. Set the graft at the same level as in the nursery pot. Water when the top 2–3 cm (¾–1¼ in) feels dry. Feed in spring with a slow-release fertilizer, then supplement with a dilute liquid feed every few weeks until midsummer. Refresh the top 5–8 cm (2–3 in) of mix each spring; repot fully every 3–4 years.
Cutting for the vase
Pick stems when the outer ring of petals opens and the center is still cupped. Cut early in the day, plunge stems into lukewarm water, and strip foliage below the waterline. Recut stems after a few hours and change water every other day. Enjoy 5–7 days of vase life in a cool room out of direct sun.
Troubleshooting quick checks
- Lots of leaves, few flowers: Increase sun exposure; stop high-nitrogen feeds; deadhead promptly.
- Edges of petals scorch in heat: Add afternoon shade and keep soil moisture steady with mulch.
- Leaves yellow with green veins: Suspect high-pH soil or iron deficiency. Add organic matter and consider a chelated iron drench if needed.
- Stems rock in the wind: Firm the soil, add a discreet stake for the first season, and mulch.
The takeaway: plant it where you’ll smell it
Rosa ‘Princess Alexandra of Kent’ gives you drama without disorder. The shrub stays rounded and strong; the flowers sit proud and abundant; the scent invites you in. Plant it in full sun with rich, well-drained soil. Water deeply, mulch generously, and feed modestly. Prune in late winter, deadhead through summer, and give it a little winter protection where needed. Do that, and this rose will keep sending those lavish pink chalices—lemon and blackcurrant on the air—from late spring until the season’s close.
