Prunus ‘Matsumae-Mathimurzakura’: a compact Japanese Cherry with deep-pink spring theatre
Prunus ‘Matsumae-Mathimurzakura’ brings a vivid, mid-spring show to small gardens without overpowering the space. This Japanese Flowering Cherry—also listed as Cherry ‘Matsumae-Mathimur-zakura‘ and often grouped with the Matsumae Cherry selections—packs clusters of rich, deep-pink blossoms onto a slow-growing, compact framework. It belongs to the Rosaceae family, home to apples, plums, peaches, and many other garden staples. You plant it for the blossom clouds, but you keep it for the coppery spring foliage, the clean summer canopy, and the fiery autumn color. With good siting and simple pruning, it rewards you year after year.
Background: where Prunus ‘Matsumae-Mathimurzakura’ comes from
This cultivar hails from Matsumae on Hokkaido, Japan, a town that turned cherry breeding into a civic passion in the mid-20th century. Led by dedicated plantsman Masatoshi Asari and others, Matsumae created a celebrated collection of ornamental cherries and opened Japan’s first park devoted to many cultivars in 1961. ‘Matsumae-Mathimurzakura’ reflects that era’s goals: compact size, heavy bloom, and character that shifts gracefully through the season. Garden centers sometimes shorten or split the name; you may see “Matsumae Mathimur Zakura” on labels. Treat these as the same selection.
What the flowers of Prunus ‘Matsumae-Mathimurzakura’ look like
Count on medium-sized blossoms that open in clusters (umbels) along short spurs. Each flower shows a saturated deep pink that reads bold from a distance. Many blooms open with a richer center and paler margins. Over several days, the tones shift as anthocyanin pigments respond to temperature and light. Cool nights push the color deeper; milder weather softens it. Petals range from single to semi-double, so you see a lively mix on one tree. The effect is airy rather than heavy, which suits a compact habit. A light honeyed scent hovers on still, mild days.
Foliage, bark, and seasonal interest
Leaves emerge with a copper or bronze wash in spring, then mature to deep green by early summer. They are ovate, lightly toothed, and hang on short petioles that keep the canopy tight and tidy. In autumn, the foliage turns orange to red, often with embers of crimson near the veins. The bark on young shoots is smooth and green-brown; older wood develops a satin sheen with fine horizontal lenticels that catch low sun beautifully. Winter reveals a neat, layered branch structure—another reason this tree fits formal courtyards and small front gardens.
Size and habit
Expect a slow, steady build. In typical gardens the tree reaches around 3 m (10 ft) tall and 2.5–3 m (8–10 ft) wide after about 15–20 years. Growth stays compact, with short internodes and a rounded crown. The frame thickens rather than shoots skyward, so it rarely needs aggressive pruning. You can also train it as a short standard with a 1–1.2 m (3–4 ft) clear stem, then let it dome out above a path or bench.
Flowering season: timing and display
This is a mid-season bloomer. In many temperate gardens the show starts from mid-April to early May. Buds swell quickly with the first warm spell, then open over a week or more. Cool nights extend the display. A late cold snap can nip petals on any cherry, so site selection matters; a sheltered spot out of north or east winds protects the blossom.
Common and trade names to know
You’ll meet this tree as Matsumae Cherry, Japanese Flowering Cherry, Cherry ‘Matsumae-Mathimur-zakura’, and, most often, Prunus ‘Matsumae-Mathimurzakura’. Garden writers sometimes shorten it to “Mathimurzakura.” Keep the tags if your nursery uses a longer label—future you will be glad.
Where Prunus ‘Matsumae-Mathimurzakura’ shines in design
Use a single tree as a courtyard focal point where you see it from the kitchen or entry. Set a pair to mark a gate or garden room. Underplant with spring bulbs—white daffodils or soft blue muscari—to echo and cool the pink. Later, let low perennials skirt the trunk to shade the roots: epimedium, hardy geranium, hellebores, or shade-tolerant grasses. In tiny plots, a standard form becomes a living umbrella over a bench. In wider borders, repeat three trees at 2.5–3 m (8–10 ft) centers to create a light avenue.
How to Grow Prunus ‘Matsumae-Mathimurzakura‘
Light
Give Prunus ‘Matsumae-Mathimurzakura’ full sun for the strongest flower set and best fall color. Aim for 6–8 hours of direct light. In hotter regions, a hint of afternoon shade protects petals from bleaching and keeps the canopy lush through summer.
Soil
Provide fertile, well-drained loam. A neutral to slightly acidic pH—about 6.5 to 7.0—suits it well. In heavy clay, work in 5–8 cm (2–3 in) of compost plus coarse grit to improve structure and drainage. In very sandy soils, add compost and leaf mold to hold moisture. Avoid sites with standing winter water; cherries dislike wet feet.
Watering
Water deeply during establishment. For the first growing season, apply about 10–15 L (2½–4 gal) once a week in average weather and twice weekly during heat. After the first year, water only during extended dry spells, but water well when you do—long soaks beat frequent sips. A soaker hose makes slow, deep watering easy. Always check the top 5–8 cm (2–3 in) of soil before watering; if it’s still moist, wait a day.
Fertilizing
Feed lightly. In early spring, spread 2–3 L (2–3 qt) of well-rotted compost across the root zone, then top it with mulch. If growth looks weak or leaves pale, scratch in a balanced, slow-release fertilizer (something close to 5-5-5) at label rates. Avoid heavy nitrogen; it can push soft growth that invites pests and reduces flowering.
Planting and spacing
Plant in early spring or early autumn. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and only as deep. Set the tree so the root flare sits level with the surrounding soil. Backfill with your native soil blended with compost, firm lightly, and water to settle. Stake only if the site is windy or the tree rocks; use two stakes and a soft, figure-eight tie, and remove supports after one year. Space small trees at least 3–4 m (10–13 ft) from buildings or other trees to allow the crown to develop evenly.
Mulching
Mulch matters on cherries. Apply a 5–7 cm (2–3 in) layer of shredded bark, composted wood chips, or leaf mold over the root zone each spring. Keep mulch 7–10 cm (3–4 in) away from the trunk to prevent collar rot. Mulch suppresses weeds, moderates soil temperature, and shields fine feeder roots.
Pruning and training
Prune just after flowering in late spring. That timing lowers disease risk and keeps next year’s flower buds intact. Start with dead, damaged, or crossing branches. Then make small edits to open the canopy and maintain shape. Use sharp, clean tools and cut to, not into, the branch collar. Avoid heavy winter pruning on Prunus; large cuts in cold, wet weather can invite silver leaf disease and bacterial canker. For formative training on a young tree, build a balanced framework of 4–5 evenly spaced primary branches over the first three years, shortening long leaders by a third after bloom to encourage side shoots.
Climate and hardiness
Most gardeners can grow this tree across cool-temperate regions. In practical terms, think about conditions similar to USDA Zones 5–8, depending on exposure and soil. It thrives in locations with a real winter chill and a mild, bright spring. In warm zones, choose the coolest aspect you have and water more thoughtfully through summer.
Container culture
You can raise a young tree in a large container for several years—handy for terraces. Choose a pot at least 45–50 cm (18–20 in) across with generous drainage holes. Use a high-quality, bark-based potting mix, and water when the top 3–5 cm (1–2 in) dries. Feed sparingly in spring with a slow-release product. Expect to plant it out into the garden within 3–4 seasons; long-term pot culture stresses cherries.
Propagation of Prunus ‘Matsumae-Mathimurzakura’
Nurseries maintain named cherries by budding or grafting onto compatible rootstocks, which control vigor and adapt the tree to a range of soils. If you propagate, use T-budding or chip budding in mid- to late summer onto a suitable stock such as Prunus avium or P. serrulata forms, depending on your region. Hardwood cuttings of flowering cherries rarely root well and seldom hold cultivar traits reliably. Seed will not come true. As always, check local rules before asexual propagation and source clean, virus-indexed material.
Pests & Diseases
Start with prevention. Sun, drainage, mulch, and light spring pruning do most of the work.
Aphids gather on soft tips in spring. Ants often farm them. Knock small colonies off with a firm water jet in the morning. Encourage lady beetles and hoverflies by planting diverse flowers nearby. If pressure builds, use insecticidal soap according to label.
Scale insects can settle on older wood. Look for bumpy brown shields on stems. In winter, apply a dormant horticultural oil when temps allow, coating bark thoroughly.
Spider mites flare in hot, dry spells. Leaves show tiny speckles and fine webbing. Hose foliage to raise humidity and rinse mites away. If needed, apply a labeled miticide or summer oil.
Caterpillars occasionally chew leaves. Hand-pick when practical. Birds do much of the control for you; avoid broad-spectrum sprays that harm beneficials.
Blossom blight (brown rot) can shrivel flowers in wet springs. Improve airflow, avoid overhead watering during bloom, and remove blighted clusters promptly. Where spring rains persist, a preventative fungicide timed at pink bud can help—follow regional guidance.
Cherry leaf spot and shot hole cause speckled, tattered leaves later in the season. Rake and bin fallen foliage in autumn. Keep the canopy open with light, post-bloom pruning.
Bacterial canker shows as sunken lesions and dieback, often after harsh winters or heavy pruning. Prune just after bloom, keep cuts small, and never leave stubs. If a branch oozes and wilts, cut back into healthy wood in dry weather and disinfect tools between cuts.
Silver leaf disease can follow large winter wounds. Again, prune after flowering and protect structure rather than making big cuts in cold, wet months.
Good hygiene pays. In autumn, clear leaf litter and spent blossom. Keep mulch fresh and away from the trunk. Water at the soil level, not over the canopy.
Environmental tolerances and siting notes
Prunus ‘Matsumae-Mathimurzakura’ enjoys an open, airy site. It handles typical urban conditions but dislikes salt spray and compacted, waterlogged ground. Young trees need regular moisture; mature trees tolerate short dry spells if mulched. Avoid reflected heat from south-facing walls in hot climates; it can rush bloom and shorten the show. A slight slope or raised bed helps in heavy soils.
Safety and pets
Like many Prunus species, leaves, stems, and seeds contain cyanogenic compounds. Keep pets from chewing prunings. Dispose of pruned material with yard waste rather than shredding it into play areas.
Prunus ‘Matsumae-Mathimurzakura’ through the year
Winter (Jan–Feb): Check stakes and ties. Inspect bark for scale. In cold regions, ensure mulch still covers the root zone but does not touch the trunk.
Early spring (Mar–Apr): Remove winter debris. Water if late winter is dry. Do not feed heavily; wait until you see steady growth.
Mid-spring (Apr–May): Enjoy bloom. After petals drop, prune lightly to shape and remove any winter damage. Spread compost and refresh mulch. Water if rainfall is scarce.
Summer (Jun–Aug): Keep the root zone evenly moist in heat. Watch for aphids, mites, and leaf spot. Avoid hard pruning.
Autumn (Sep–Nov): Take in the foliage show. Rake and bin leaves if disease appeared. Water deeply before the ground freezes in dry falls.
Troubleshooting quick help
Few flowers: Check sun first. You need 6–8 hours daily. Avoid heavy nitrogen. Prune right after bloom, not in winter, to preserve next year’s buds.
Blossoms brown overnight: Late frost or blossom blight. Provide a more sheltered site and consider a windbreak. In wet springs, improve airflow and use regionally recommended bloom-time fungicides if needed.
Leaves yellow mid-summer: Often drought stress or poor drainage. Probe the soil before watering. Adjust irrigation for deep, occasional soaks.
Gumming on the trunk: Possible borers or canker. Improve vigor with correct watering and mulch. Seek local advice for borer management and prune out infected wood in dry weather.
Dieback on one branch: Cut back into healthy tissue after bloom. Disinfect tools between cuts. Review pruning timing to reduce future risk.
Measured at a glance
- Family: Rosaceae
- Genus: Prunus
- Cultivar: ‘Matsumae-Mathimurzakura’
- Common names: Matsumae Cherry, Japanese Flowering Cherry, Cherry ‘Matsumae-Mathimur-zakura’
- Habit: Small deciduous tree, rounded crown, compact framework
- Size: About 3 m tall × 2.5–3 m wide (10 ft × 8–10 ft) at maturity
- Bloom: Deep-pink, single to semi-double, mid-season (mid-April to early May in many regions)
- Foliage: Coppery spring flush; deep green summer; orange-red autumn
- Exposure: Full sun; light afternoon shade in hot climates
- Soil: Fertile, well-drained loam; pH ~6.5–7.0
- Water: Regular during establishment; deep soaks in drought
- Hardiness: Cool-temperate climates roughly comparable to USDA 5–8, depending on siting and soil
- Toxicity: Leaves, stems, seeds can be harmful if ingested by pets
Why gardeners choose Prunus ‘Matsumae-Mathimurzakura‘
You want a cherry with saturated pink flowers that still fits a modest plot. And you want steady health without constant spraying a spring drama, summer shade, and autumn fire from a single, manageable tree. Plant Prunus ‘Matsumae-Mathimurzakura’. Give it sun, drainage, and a light hand with the pruners. Then enjoy a blossom-packed spring—and a small tree that earns its keep the rest of the year.
