Rosa ‘Belmonte’: a pearl-pink Floribunda that flowers for months
Rosa ‘Belmonte’ or Belmonte Rose sets a gentle, pearl-pink glow in any border. This compact Floribunda rose forms tidy clusters of double blooms from late spring to autumn, then keeps going with repeat flushes whenever you deadhead. Bred by Harkness Roses in the United Kingdom and introduced in 2007, it belongs to the Rosaceae family and carries the protected cultivar name ‘Harpearl’ (PBR). Gardeners also meet it as Belmonte Rose, ‘Butterfly Kisses’, or ‘Sheridan’s Anniversary Blush’. Whatever name you use, the plant delivers reliable color, healthy foliage, and a light citrus-fruity perfume that reads clean and modern in the garden.
Rosa ‘Belmonte’ at a glance
Think of ‘Belmonte’ as a small, elegant workhorse. Plants grow 60–120 cm tall (2–4 ft) and 60–90 cm wide (2–3 ft), with a bushy, upright habit that fits beds, low hedges, and containers. Semi-glossy, medium-green leaves hold their polish through summer, which helps every flush of flowers look fresh. The blossoms measure about 5–7.5 cm across (2–3 in). Petal counts sit in the 26–40 range, so the effect is fully double but never heavy. The color stays a pale to light pearl pink that softens at the edges, and cool nights bring out a delicate blush in the center.
Harkness Roses bred ‘Belmonte’ for a blend of poise and stamina: repeat flushes, neat plant shape, and foliage that stands up to common diseases in average garden conditions. The rose took home the Gold Standard Award in 2009, a trial honor that flags cultivars with consistent garden merit. The marketing name salutes Her Excellency Donna Francesca Elbrick di Belmonte. Synonyms in the trade—‘Butterfly Kisses’ and ‘Sheridan’s Anniversary Blush’—reflect its romantic look and steady performance.
Flowers and fragrance
Each truss opens with cupped buds that unfurl into soft, rounded rosettes. The outer petals carry a faint pearly sheen; the inner petals hold a lighter, near-ivory glow. On warm afternoons you will notice a moderate, fruity fragrance with a citrus top note. It never overwhelms; it invites. Because the blooms come in clusters of three to seven, the plant reads as a mass of color even when individual flowers fade. Cut a stem when two blooms are open and the rest are just cracking color; you will get a week indoors with cool water and clean snips.
Flowering season and performance
You plant ‘Belmonte’ for continuity. It starts in late spring as days warm and keeps flowering in flushes until the first hard frost. Deadhead after each wave and feed lightly, and the next set of buds follows fast. In regions with long summers, you can enjoy three or four strong flushes. In short seasons, you still see a main show and a generous encore.
Landscape uses for Rosa ‘Belmonte’
Place ‘Belmonte’ where you want softness and rhythm. It fronts taller shrubs without getting lost and anchors mixed cottage borders with pastel partners. Belmonte Rose also thrives near patios, where compact size and clean foliage matter. Use three plants on 60–75 cm (24–30 in) centers to stitch a low hedge along a path. Slip a single plant into a large container 40–45 cm wide (16–18 in) and underplant with airy companions; you get a long, tidy display right at eye level.
Environmental tolerances
This rose enjoys full sun and average garden soils. It tolerates light afternoon shade in hot inland sites. Once established, it endures short dry spells, though regular deep watering keeps blooms larger and leaves glossier. It handles urban conditions and light pollution well. Cold limits vary by exposure, but most gardeners treat it as hardy to roughly USDA Zones 5–9 with winter protection in the colder end of that range.
How to Grow Rosa ‘Belmonte’
Light
Give ‘Belmonte’ full sun for the best show. Aim for 6–8 hours of direct light each day. Morning sun dries dewy leaves and reduces disease pressure. In very hot climates, a touch of late-afternoon shade keeps petals fresh.
Soil
Plant it in fertile, well-drained soil. A loam with plenty of organic matter works best. Target a pH between 6.0 and 6.8, though the plant tolerates slightly acidic to neutral ground. In clay, loosen the top 30–35 cm (12–14 in) and blend in 5–8 cm (2–3 in) of compost to improve drainage. In sand, add compost to hold moisture.
Planting
Dig a wide hole—at least 45 cm (18 in) across and 30–35 cm (12–14 in) deep. Rough up the sides so new roots can move out. Set the plant so the bud union sits just at soil level in mild climates, or 2–5 cm (1–2 in) below soil level where winters bite. Backfill with amended native soil. Firm gently to remove air pockets. Water thoroughly to settle the crown. Space plants 60–90 cm (24–36 in) apart to promote airflow and clean growth.
Watering
Water deeply and less often. In the first season, soak the root zone whenever the top 5 cm (2 in) of soil dries. Each soak should wet the soil 20–25 cm deep (8–10 in). Mature roses prefer a weekly deep drink in cool weather, and two per week during heat waves. Always water the soil, not the leaves. Early morning irrigation works best.
Mulching
Mulch to conserve moisture and keep soil cool. Lay a 5–7.5 cm layer (2–3 in) of shredded bark, compost, or leaf mold around—but not touching—the canes. Maintain this ring year-round. In winter, add extra mulch in cold regions to insulate the crown.
Fertilizing
Feed for steady bloom, not lush leafiness. In early spring, apply a balanced, slow-release rose fertilizer at label rate, or scratch in 2–3 liters (½–¾ gal) of compost around each plant. After the first big flush, feed again with a balanced product or a bloom-leaning organic blend. In long seasons, one more light feed in midsummer can help. Stop fertilizing 6–8 weeks before your average first frost so new growth can harden.
Pruning and training
Prune in late winter or very early spring, just as buds swell. Remove dead, damaged, or crossing canes first. Open the center to light by taking out a few older stems at the base if the plant feels crowded. Shorten remaining canes by about one-third to one-half, cutting to outward-facing buds. Through the season, deadhead spent clusters by cutting back to a strong five-leaflet leaf. This keeps the shrub tidy and triggers repeat bloom. If you want hips for autumn interest, stop deadheading in late summer and let the last flush set fruit.
Winter care
In cold regions, protect the crown. After the first hard freeze, mound 15–20 cm (6–8 in) of compost or soil over the base. In very exposed sites, add a breathable wrap around the lower framework. Remove the mound in spring when consistent thaw arrives. In milder climates, winter care is simple: refresh mulch, prune lightly, and check ties and stakes.
Containers
‘Belmonte’ performs beautifully in pots. Choose a container at least 40–45 cm wide (16–18 in) with large drainage holes. Use a high-quality, peat-free potting mix with added compost and perlite for air. Water when the top 2–3 cm (¾–1¼ in) of mix feels dry. Feed lightly every 4–6 weeks from spring to midsummer with a balanced liquid fertilizer at half strength. Lift the pot onto feet to improve drainage, and place it where wind will not rock the plant.
Companion planting with Belmonte Rose
Set this pearl pink against cool blues and silvers to make the color sing. Plant with Nepeta (catmint), Lavandula(lavender), and Silver Artemisia at the front for a soft drift that also draws pollinators. Thread spires of Salvia nemorosa through the bed for structure. For a pastel scheme, add pale foxgloves and white Gaura. In containers, trail bacopa or creeping thyme over the rim and pop in a vertical accent like purple fountain grass for movement.
Propagation of Rosa ‘Belmonte’
Home gardeners usually propagate Floribundas from cuttings. Take semi-ripe cuttings in late summer. Choose pencil-thick, non-flowering shoots and cut 15 cm (6 in) lengths. Remove the lower leaves, dip the base in rooting hormone, and place in a free-draining mix of perlite and compost. Keep the tray bright but out of direct sun at 18–22 °C (64–72 °F). Mist to maintain even moisture. Roots often appear in four to six weeks. Overwinter the young plants frost-free, then harden and plant out in spring. Hardwood cuttings in late autumn also work; insert two-thirds of the length into a sheltered sand-rich bed and keep evenly moist.
Note: ‘Harpearl’ carries Plant Breeders’ Rights in some markets. Propagate for personal use only and check your local rules before distributing plants.
Pests and diseases
Good hygiene prevents most issues. Rake and remove fallen leaves in autumn. Water the soil, not the canopy. Space plants so breezes dry the foliage.
Black spot can freckle leaves during wet spells. Prune for airflow, avoid overhead watering, and use a preventative fungicide only if your garden has a history of severe outbreaks. Powdery mildew turns new leaves dusty in hot, dry days followed by cool nights. Increase deep watering and prune lightly to reduce congestion. Rust shows as orange pustules on leaf undersides in cool, damp weather; remove affected leaves and improve light.
Aphids gather on soft tips in spring. A sharp water spray or a pass with gloved fingers usually clears them. Lady beetles and hoverflies help if you avoid broad insecticides. Rose sawfly larvae (the “green slug”) can skeletonize leaves. Inspect the undersides weekly in late spring and remove larvae by hand; follow with a labeled organic control if needed. Spider mites build in heat and dust; hose foliage in the morning once or twice a week and use horticultural oil if populations climb. Japanese beetles chew petals where they occur; morning handpicking into soapy water remains the simplest tactic.
Water-wise care for Rosa ‘Belmonte’
Because ‘Belmonte’ stays compact, it adapts well to water-wise beds. Deep, infrequent irrigation trains roots down. A 5–7.5 cm (2–3 in) mulch ring cuts evaporation and steadies soil temperature. In heavy heat, shade the root zone with low companions and keep soil covered. You use less water and get fewer weeds.
Quick troubleshooting
If flowers shrink in midsummer, you may be letting the root zone dry too far between soaks. Increase the depth of each watering rather than the frequency. If leaves yellow from the bottom up while veins stay green, feed lightly with a balanced fertilizer and water deeply to move nutrients into the root zone. However, if stems stretch and the shrub looks thin, push it into more sun and prune harder in late winter to rebuild a compact framework. When the repeat bloom stalls, deadhead back to a strong five-leaflet leaf and apply a light midsummer feed.
Cut-flower tips
Harvest early in the day. Choose stems with one bloom fully open and one or two buds just showing color. Cut at a 45-degree angle, strip leaves that would sit below the waterline, and place stems into a clean vase with fresh, cool water. Change the water every other day. With these steps, you can expect 5–7 days of vase life indoors.
Why gardeners choose Belmonte Rose
You get months of bloom on a small footprint, foliage that stays handsome, and fragrance that suits modern gardens. Plant it in a mixed border, slip it into a front-yard hedge, or lift it into a pot by the back door. You can also trust it to repeat freely with basic care. If you love gentle pinks and neat plants, Rosa ‘Belmonte’ deserves a place near the path where you pass every day.
Final notes on Rosa ‘Belmonte’ care
Plant it in full sun. Place it in soil that drains. Water deeply, then allow the surface to dry before the next soak. Feed modestly and on time. Prune with purpose in late winter. Deadhead to drive repeats. Protect the crown in cold zones. With that simple routine, Rosa ‘Belmonte’ rewards you with clusters of pearl-pink rosettes from late spring to the edge of frost—an easy, graceful rose that earns its keep in gardens big and small.
